The historic centre of Naples at Christmas takes on a very special magic. Few cities in the world preserve a Christmas tradition like Naples. A tradition that you can breathe walking through the alleys of its historic centre.
Every year there is something new to make Naples at Christmas a special moment to share with everyone. For instance, in 2020, there was the creation of a ‘pizza nativity scene’, i.e. a typical Neapolitan nativity scene made with pizza dough. Two of the city’s excellences coming together for a stunning and decidedly unique result. Starting in early December, in the splendid setting of the Basilica of Santa Chiara in Spaccanapoli, it was possible to admire this nativity scene, on which artisans and pizza makers had been working for months.
The “Grande Presepio dell’Arte dei Piazzaiuoli” – this is the name given to the work – had a diameter of three metres and a height of two metres, with a cylindrical shape that recalled Vesuvius. The supporting structure was built in pure eighteenth-century nativity scene style, using wood and cork. It was then covered with pizza dough, treated with anti-parasitic and consolidation products, after a treatment with fire. The shepherds of the Nativity, on the other hand, were made of terracotta by Neapolitan artisans, covered with fine fabrics, tracing the traditional 18th-century style.
Naples at Christmas: visiting the historic centre
A visit to the historic centre of Naples at Christmas would be meaningless without a stroll through San Gregorio Armeno, the world’s most famous street of shepherds. Every year this small street, squeezed between the two Decumani of Via dei Tribunali and Via San Biagio dei Librai, welcomes thousands of tourists. People from all over the world come here to discover the ancient art of nativity scenes and to buy a terracotta shepherd handmade by artisans.
When you reach Piazza San Gaetano, walk along Via dei Tribunali and enjoy the scenes of daily life that tell the story of the truest Naples. Stop to visit the small chapels of the confraternities that house traditional nativity scenes. A stop in front of the statue reproducing the face of Pulcinella in Vico del Fico al Purgatorio is a must. It is said that stroking Pulcinella’s nose brings good luck. Will it be true, will it be false?! When in doubt, it is always better to try!
Churches of Naples at Christmas
If you decide to visit Naples at Christmas, you could be lucky enough to find some of its most famous churches open. During my short walk, I visited six churches, but there are many more along the way. The first stop was at the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, in the square of the same name. A splendid example of Baroque art, it houses the body of San Giuseppe Moscati and is truly one of the most beautiful churches in Naples. You enter and you don’t know where to look, such is the magnificence. Its construction began in 1584 but there were many restorations that partially changed its appearance over the years.
The second church visited is the Basilica of Santa Chiara, the largest Gothic basilica in Naples. The interior is a huge space characterised by the extreme simplicity of the furnishings. In fact, the church appears almost bare. Opened for worship in 1330 at the behest of Robert of Anjou, the Basilica is part of a larger monumental complex that also includes a monastery, a cloister and a large refectory.
Third stop was the small Church of Sant’Angelo a Nilo, in Piazzetta Nilo, built in the 14th century and known because it houses the tomb of Cardinal Brancaccio made by Donatello. Then, moving along the street of cribs, make a brief stop at the Church of San Gregorio Armeno, also known as the Church of Santa Patrizia and dating back to the mid-1600s. Together with the nearby monastic complex, which also includes a beautiful cloister, the church is one of the oldest, largest and most important religious buildings in the city.
Towards the end of San Gregorio Armeno, the Basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore, dating from 1235, pops out on the right. Monumental in its enormity, this church too is rather bare, in keeping with the culture of the time. In its basement, the remains of the macellum, dating back to the 1st century, where the city market took place in Roman times, have been found.
The last stop on my journey through the historical centre of Naples at Christmas is the Basilica of San Domenico Maggiore, built between 1283 and 1324 and commissioned by Charles II of Anjou. The imposing Gothic building was entrusted to the Dominicans, who still live in the convent where St. Thomas Aquinas also lived. The interior is richly decorated and one can admire the ancient 1640 pipes’ organ. A special feature of the Basilica is that its apsidal area overlooks the square of the same name, while the main entrance is located in the convent courtyard.
So, as you can see, there are many good reasons to visit Naples at Christmas!
