Naples is a city that never stops surprising even its own citizens with places of incredible charm, hiding stories that are just as fascinating. One such place is the Naples’ Skull Church or better known as “Church of the “Capuzzelle” on Via dei Tribunali, officially known as the Museum Complex of Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco.
My visit to this unique site dates back to 2013. The original article was written then, but I have updated it in 2025 to make it more complete and informative for today’s travelers.
A baroque treasure in the heart of Naples
Walking along the ancient Neapolitan street of Via dei Tribunali, you’ll come across this church, built in the 17th century by a charitable foundation and consecrated in 1638.
A true masterpiece of Neapolitan Baroque art, it was designed from the beginning on two levels.
The upper church is a refined artistic gem, featuring paintings by major artists such as Massimo Stanzione — with his “Madonna of the Souls in Purgatory” above the high altar — Andrea Vaccaro’s “Transit of Saint Joseph” in the side chapels, and a youthful Luca Giordano with his “Ecstasy of Saint Alexis.”
From the upper church, a small hatch leads down into the hypogeum, designed as an evocative descent into Purgatory.
The cult of the “anime pezzentelle” – the Poor Souls
This is the birthplace of the cult of the Poor Souls, a devotion that continues even today.
Visitors immediately sense the mystical, spiritual atmosphere that fills the space. The central altar, built of piperno stone in the 1600s, is surrounded by funerary symbols, bones, and skulls — the so-called capuzzelle.
Walking through the underground passageways, you’ll find yourself in a network of galleries and open spaces that were used as bomb shelters during World War II.
In some areas, you can even see small altars made from ordinary kitchen tiles, brought underground by those seeking refuge to recreate a sense of home.
A corridor then leads to the Terra Santa — the “Holy Ground” — where the founding members of the congregation rest. Among the many skulls lies that of Lucia, a soul much loved by local tradition. Women once entrusted her with their love troubles, believing Lucia to be a miraculous “capuzzella,” especially for unmarried women praying to find a husband.
What does the cult of the Poor Souls mean?
This ancient, pagan-origin cult — not officially recognized by the Church — involved adopting an anonymous skull, or capuzzella, lowered into the lower church through openings in the ceiling.
The faithful saw these remains as special intermediaries for their prayers, asking them for protection, blessings, or favors.
Even today, along the side walls of the lower church, you can find photographs and personal objects belonging to the deceased, placed here by families in the hope of helping their souls reach Paradise more easily.
Visiting the Naples Skull Church
Upper Church – Hypogeum – Museum
🕓 Opening hours
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Monday to Saturday: 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry 4:15 PM)
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Sunday: 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM (last entry 1:15 PM)
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Upper Church: free entry
🎧 Guided tours in Italian
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Monday to Saturday: 12:00 PM and 3:00 PM
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Sunday: 12:00 PM
Daily guided tours are included in the ticket price and must be booked in advance.
✉️ Booking requests:
progettomuseo.purgatorioadarco@gmail.com
💶 Admission fee: €7 (reduced €6)
Why visit the Church of the Capuzzelle in Naples?
If you’re fascinated by mysterious places and ancient traditions, this underground church in Naples is a must-see.
The Chiesa delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco perfectly embodies the soul of Naples — spiritual, superstitious, and deeply human.
It’s not just a monument, but a living testimony of the city’s faith, art, and enduring connection with its ancestors.
Whether you’re passionate about Baroque art, intrigued by dark tourism, or simply looking to explore something off the beaten path, the Naples Skull Church is an unforgettable stop on your journey through Naples.
