San Gregorio Armeno is Naples. There is no Christmas in Naples without a stroll through San Gregorio Armeno, the famous street of cribs in Naples. It is there where the art of nativity scenes acquires a value even greater than the festivity itself from which it originates. Before embarking on the construction or restoration of one’s own crib, it is a tradition for every Neapolitan family to go to this narrow alley in the historical centre of the Neapolitan capital. This is the perfect place if you are looking for accessories for your nativity scene or the typical terracotta shepherds. You will find all types and sizes. You will just have to decide which figure to place alongside those already present in your nativity scene. I am no exception either and every year, around November when there are fewer crowds, I go to San Gregorio Armeno for my purchases.
San Gregorio Armeno: the street of cribs in Naples
Via San Gregorio Armeno is the famous street of the crib artisans, perpendicularly joining two of the Neapolitan decumans: the Decumano Maggiore (via dei Tribunali) and the Decumano Inferiore (via San Biagio dei Librai). This street is world famous for its countless workshops dedicated to the art of nativity scenes. It can be visited all year round, but during the Christmas time the magic is certainly greater. It is difficult to describe in words or pictures the multitude of colourful workshops, shops and stalls that can be found. Certainly, if you need some detail to embellish or perhaps build your own nativity scene, this is the place to find it.
The story of cribs in Naples is very old, however, here it is mixed with current events. Alongside genuine works of art, the result of the work of artisan families who have been handing down the craft for generations, there are objects that are, to say the least, peculiar. The statuette, or rather the caricature, of the politician or VIP of the moment has become a classic. Some artisans, in fact, have specialised in making these particular shepherds and as soon as a character rises to the headlines for some reason, they create the relative shepherd, emphasising some detail linked to the event that made him famous.
If you’ll visit the street of cribs in Naples, you will already be in the heart of the historical centre of the city. Don’t miss a visit to the many churches you can find along the way, the old noble palaces or the shops selling local delicacies.